The Ugly Truth About Being Blonde

Thinking of beginning your blonde journey? Heres what you should know!
There are 3 main factors that dictate how blonde you’ll be able to go; 1) Genetics 2) Hair history (color, chemicals and home care routine) 3) Willingness to commit monetarily.

1) Our biological genetics are responsible for many things such as bodily ailments, skin color, eye color, hair texture and hair color ! Depending on the level of your natural hair in combination with your natural texture, you may only be able to achieve a certain level of lightness without severely damaging your tresses.
Our hair is made of Keratin (protein), and our hair pigment comes from melanin produced inside of the hair bulb where the hair is formed. When going blonde, you are irreversibly lifting out melanin and keratin. Therefore, if you go too far…you’ve gone too far. This is typically what happens when you feel dryness and/or split ends on a regular basis.
There are two types of melanin in the hair; pheomelanin (responsible for tone) and eumelanin (responsible for depth). Every origin of hair is filled with different amounts of each melanin which makes it easier, faster, slower, or impossible when it comes to lightening hair. For example, those of asian descent have SO much eumelanin (depth) that it can take AGES to lift. Hence, sometimes when going blonde you must endure the “brassy” phase for longer than say someone of European descent, who also has eumelanin but theirs is a lighter molecule and lifts FAST!!

As colorists, especially those of us who specialize in Blondes, we WANT everyone who wants to be blonde to be blonde! Being blonde is an amazing thing. However, we can’t change the genetics you were born with, NOR can we change science, and believe me or not, what we do IS science and therefore we must obey the rules!
The beauty industry has invented NUMEROUS products to be able to help us lift hair lighter and for it to remain as optimally healthy as possible, but these products are only assistants to the process, they don’t change the laws of science.

2) When your hair has been previously processed with a darker, or warmer shade than you are trying to achieve, just know that everything I stated above is even MORE true! Breaking through previously processed hair requires 100x more patience, flexibility, money and care.

Like the kids say today, “that’s on period’ (what does that even mean?)

Anyway, when depositing a darker or warmer color into the hair shaft, the molecules are permanently altered and adjusted. It becomes one with the hairs structure and therefore when lifting it out, its definitely not a cookie cutter situation. Not only are you lifting the processed color but your also dealing with the natural makeup of the hair. THIS IS COLOR CORRECTION and color corrections generally take more time and product for the colorist and thus WILL be more expensive. You also will most likely need MULTIPLE sessions and yes each one will be expensive. Depending on the situation, a haircut may be required or suggested by the colorist to ensure they can give you the color you’re wanting while maintaining the integrity of your hair the best they can.

Now, don’t get me wrong and don’t let me scare you. Some guests do absolutely fine, their hair stays strong and they only need one or two sessions. However, in most cases when dealing with color corrections, you must remain open to the final result. We can’t and won’t over promise you. We will be honest and tell you whether we feel your hair can take the journey or not; and if not, we’re just as sorry as you are…trust me.

During your consultation, we will ask you what products you’ve been using on your hair at home and will most likely suggest and REQUIRE you to invest in something that well help your hair during your lightening journey.

3) If you do not use the correct products and home care routine, this can hinder your options when it comes to going lighter. For instance, if you use a shampoo and conditioner that has TON of alcohol, scent additives, and animal byproducts (which they don’t tell you directly DO YOUR RESEARCH), your hair probably feels dry and stiff. Or if your putting heat in your hair repeatedly in a day or week without washing it, your ends are probably split and broken…sorry.

How do you know if your using one of these shampoos or conditioners? Well, if it cost you $6 or less..your using them! And if it costs YOU $6, it probably cost them $1 to make…think about it.
I try to put ALL of my blondies on a proper regiment, I suggest to them what shampoo, conditioner, leave in, oils, thermal irons and towels to use on their hair and I send them detailed text messages describing how I suggest to use them all. Whether they listen or not is up to them, after all we are all grown and do what whatever we want. For recommended products please see my 7 step hair care regiment here!

Yes y’all, salon grade product is more pricey! I cringe myself when I need to purchase a new bottle of shampoo. However, why should we spend HUNDREDS of dollars on our hair color, and then destroy it with a $5.75 bottle of Pantene? Trust me, the proper products make a HUGE difference!!
As stylists we go off of your hairs feel and integrity, and if it doesn’t feel right or up to lightening, we just cant do it. And this can be a result of pure improper home care. Sometimes, we just don’t know how to properly care for our hair and thats ok! I speak for all color specialists when I say, If your willing to commit, so are we!

So heres the gist to all who want to be blonde;

1- FIND A BLONDING SPECIALIST ~ all colorst’s don’t specialize in blondes just like all physicians don’t specialize in brain surgery.
2- Be open to what they say ~ know that you may be one of those people who just can not safely become blonde or it may take multiple sessions.
3- Don’t be surprised at the cost ~ Being blonde is a lifestyle you choose, not a requirement.
4- Be prepared to invest in the products that your colorists recommends ~ we only see you every couple months, so to make sure your hair stays in great shape, thats on you boo!

~ Molly K. Carter, Director stylist and senior Blonding specialist Jovance Salon, If your in the Bay Area and want to come see me for a FREE blonding consultation, or if you would like information on education with me, feel free to reach out to me! mcarter@jovance.com